A&S Display 7

Liripipe Hood

Tessa Martini d'Agostino

I was given the opportunity to beta test a hood pattern for Revival Clothing that they were planning on offering to the public for purchase. The pattern had a nice dag, but it was plain and I realized this would be a great opportunity to add some embroidery. So I did some searching for inspiration. You can see by the paintings below that there is much opportunity to embellish the hem of the hood.

The pattern looked ok, and there were a few obvious things that needed to be adjusted, but something didn't look quite right and I couldn't figure out what it was. I talked to some other friends who are also familiar with sewing and pattern making, and they couldn't figure it out either. So time to do a test on some inexpensive cotton before cutting into the wool. I corrected some issues immediately and I did not cut the actual dag pattern, but I wanted to get a sense of how the dags would lay. You can see in the photos below what the test hood looked like.

Ah, there is the problem with the pattern. There is too much fabric and dags in the back. If you look at the side photo, you can see them piled up at his back.

After some pinning and test filling, this is the hood after a bit of "surgery" to remove the excess fabric. It now lays nice and flat against the back.

In order to reduce fraying of the dags while I was working on the embroidery that would go in the dags, I marked the fabric and did all the embroidery before cutting out the dags.

I did a blanket stitch around the hem at the face and also along all of the dags to further reduce fraying. In these photos you can see that the blanket stitch has not been completed on all the dags and I have started adding pearls for accents.

My embroidery skills are not as good as many of our wonderful artisans, but I wanted to make sure that if the dags got flipped over, the underside would also look neat and clean. To be honest a lot of it was done while traveling in planes, buses and vehicles, not always with the best light. This is a very deep blue and the needle could be hard to see even in good light. The hems at the neck and back of the hood are hand finished to keep the seams laying flat.

Hem detail at face.

Inside hem detail.

Close up of embroidery.

Finished hood.